When treating adult acne, special care must be taken to not overtreat the skin as this can deplete the natural lipid barrier and leave the skin vulnerable to additional infection and further breakouts. One suggestion would be to use cleansing oil at night. They are more thorough at removing makeup and sunscreen, without using harsh surfactants, and can actually help dissolve blackheads and clean out clogged pores. It may involve some trial and error before finding the right formula for you, as some may cause breakouts – but once you do, you will notice a big difference in the overall health of the skin.
If the breakouts do not subside and/or get worse, start constructing your acne care routine by first adding an exfoliant – either an alpha hydroxy acid, salicylic acid, or retinoid. Do not add an entire routine of exfoliants, just choose one product to add – either a cleanser, toner, treatment, or moisturizer. You will have a greater chance of success if the product you choose also has either anti-inflammatory or antibacterial properties. Then, use this product for a minimum of six weeks before deciding to switch products or add additional treatment options. The one exception to this rule would be a spot treatment to treat new acne lesions once they appear.
After six weeks, if additional therapy is needed, try adding an antibacterial agent to the routine – Sulfur, Mandelic Acid, or a botanically derived ingredient.
Last, but not least – do not forget to moisturize – especially when you are on an exfoliating routine. Moisturizers help the skin to recover after an exfoliating treatment so it is better able to ward off additional infection.
Antibacterial Agents for Adult Acne
Mild, but effective is the key to selecting an appropriate antibacterial treatment for adult acne.
Sulfur – Sulfur is mildly exfoliating and as well as anti-inflammatory and antibacterial. Its mild, non- irritating nature make it an ideal therapy in the treatment of cystic acne, where irritation can only further inflame the breakouts. Sulfur is sometimes combined with sodium sulfacetamide – which enhances the antibacterial properties of sulfur and improves results. Despite its benefits, sulfur has not become popular as a mainstream acne treatment due to its unpleasant smell and difficulty to formulate into cosmetically elegant leave-on treatments. This is why it is usually relegated to cleansers, masks, and spot treatments.
Mandelic Acid – Mandelic Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid with antibacterial and lipid-soluble properties. It can penetrate the pore and kill bacteria, while improving exfoliation in the skin. Mandelic acid is safe enough for ingestion and is safe for use during pregnancy.
Tea Tree Oil – A popular acne remedy, Tea Tree Oil is naturally antiseptic and antibacterial and is effective against bacteria, fungi, and viruses. It also reduces redness and inflammation – speeding the healing process.
Exfoliating agents for Adult Acne – Exfoliation is key when it comes to preventing and treating acne. The trick is finding the right exfoliant that works for you without causing excess irritation or dryness. Since retinoids and retinol are one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients on the market – and an effective acne care treatment as well, we first recommend starting off in search of the right retinoid for your skin. If your skin is too sensitive for any retinol or retinoid treatment, start off with an alpha hydroxy acid (preferably lactic acid or mandelic acid since they are less irritating).
Retinoids and Retinols - Retinoids stimulate cell division and increasing cell turnover and exfoliation in the skin and within the follicle, preventing hyperkeratinization that contributes to clogged pores. They also help moderate sebum production, reduce the skin’s inflammation response, and kill bacteria. Retinoids – both prescription and over-the-counter – can cause irritation and sun sensitivity, so finding the right treatment can take a lot of experimentation and patience.
Salicylic Acid – Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that works on the surface of the skin and directly within the pore to soften keratin and encourage dead skin cells to slough off and exfoliate. It is also anti-inflammatory, which helps reduce swelling and redness. It can be found in over-the- counter topicals in concentrations from 0.5-3%, though most treatments do not go above 2%.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids – Alpha Hydroxy Acids create skin exfoliation originating in the dermis, whereas salicylic acid works on the surface layer of the skin. AHAs loosen the bonds that hold dead skin cells together – so they slough off more easily and readily once they reach the skin’s surface. Choosing a more gentle alpha hydroxy acid such as lactic acid or mandelic acid may help alleviate some of the irritation associated with AHA use.
Enzymes – Enzymes, as used in skin care treatments, are protein-dissolving agents that digest dead skin. Their ability to immediately and effectively remove dead skin from the surface make them a useful adjunct therapy in the treatment of acne. A weekly enzyme treatment will help improve penetration of acne topicals and increase their effectiveness.
